Talking sustainability with SELECTED

There are definitely moments that have helped move my opinion on fashion. One of them being an event in May last year hosted by SELECTED in Copenhagen which was a series of talks and collection walkthroughs. Even before that, consumption and sustainability were words entering my inbox more regularly as both brand and media started to take the issue a lot more seriously to the point where it puts a question mark next to those who ignore it.

Since then I’ve continued to talk to people and brands who are trying to be part of the change and in this case I returned back to SELECTED - sadly not face-to-face in Copenhagen this time - to follow-up with them on the progress they are making off the back of their CPHFW presentation which was part physical, part digital. With the fashion calendar ahead we started with SS21: “Our aim is to make every collection as sustainable as possible. And we’re very proud of the fact that both our FEMME and HOMME collection we presented is made from more sustainable fibres.” While ‘more sustainable fibres’ is a bit of a grey area in itself, they are thinking what’s best for each garment they produce, with SS21 introducing a hemp-blend programme, a great alternative to tradition cotton which uses less water and harmful pesticides.

It’s an interesting time where old materials are being reevaluated and progress in tech means that new materials altogether are being created. Take piñatex for example, a substitute for resource intensive leather - aka pineapple leaves - and something you’ll see in Selected Homme’s autumn footwear collection. Then there is the more readily used and talked about tencel lyocell, with wood pulp having the ability to be turned into a shirt, a dress and even a jacket. While it has a similar process to viscose and has both softness and breathability, it is created with less harmful chemicals. Along with this development in new materials, the increase in recycling capabilities have advanced, with recycled garments coming to the fore for a number of brands. Recycled polyester, wool, nylon, cashmere and cotton are ways in which we can reduce the use of new fibres, start using more of what is already in the cycle and prevent seeing it go to landfill.downicon

For me I’m interested to see how the industry continues to adapt and in-turn make things such as hemp-blend the norm. And if that’s something to look forward to spring next year, for SELECTED this season it seems the brand are going big on tackling plastic, partnering with Danish NGO Plastic Change. “The partnership, a first of its kind for us, emphasises our continued commitment to sustainable fashion. The common goal of the collaboration is to reduce plastic pollution and the use of single-use plastics.” Selected Homme’s answer to limiting plastic? A jacket made from recycled polyester that takes 26 plastic bottles out of the ocean and landfill. This all contributes to a wider company aim (Bestseller): “to source 50% of our polyester from recycled polyester or other more sustainable alternatives by the year 2025.” You see targets being set by big players in the high street market, but I see little noise or activity in reaching them. Selected have very specific targets they are working towards with the brand already at 34% for recycled polyester and ones we will see achieved (I hope) sooner rather than later.

There’s definitely a change happening and one that may not have been moved along if it was not for consumer demand. “Consumers are increasingly adopting a more sustainable mindset – thinking about what products they choose to invest in. Our industry is trying to adapt to this growing demand with supply of more sustainable products.” Processes of the past are having to be overhauled while having one eye on the future. While I’m of the opinion that businesses have the most change to make, we cannot forget our own responsibilities as consumers and how we shop and invest. When I asked SELECTED on what consumers can do to reduce their impact it came down to changing how we shop. “Go for quality. Of course, shopping more sustainable fibres will make a difference. But a sustainable mindset is also about longevity. Picking out pieces that will stand the test of time.” So if we collectively shop slower and brands like SELECTED make better, we may start to see a big enough change to make a difference.jbicon